Henley on Thames in Oxfordshire (pop 12,200) stands at the end of a railway branch line operated by GWR from Twyford. This is on the Elizabeth line one stop before the Reading terminus, but you’re better to use the GWR service from Paddington which is faster. Connections by Underground from King’s Cross. As it happens, Twyford was due to open its new ticket office the day after my visit. The single-track Henley branch runs every half hour and delivers you close to the town centre.
Turn right towards the river and the recommended hotel is just after the only bridge over the river, this being The Relais Hotel on Hart Street, formerly known as the Red Lion. An efficient Sunday afternoon check-in led to a very pleasant room overlooking the courtyard on the inside and the view over the river from the opposite window, with a lovely deep pile carpet between the two. You could not be more central, first building west of the Bridge on the road up to the Town Hall.
My first excursion to was to the home of William Morris, the motor manufacturer of Oxford. Travel to Nuffield Place (National Trust) using daily bus no.33 from Hart Street. Look for the big brown sign after Nettlebed, ring the bell and you’ll be dropped on the Common for the entrance drive. Morris amassed huge wealth through building cars, and who became Lord Nuffield, after the name of his estate, eventually giving away £30 million at those days’ prices to medical and other charities. The side entrance was annoyingly signposted for deliveries and disabled drivers, but not for pedestrians, so I followed the much longer route via the car park and arrived two minutes after last admission. I politely protested that I would have been in good time had I used the short cut. A kind curator took pity and took me round (just as all the room volunteers left!) and it was fascinating to see how the house was preserved following Lord Nuffield’s childless death in 1963.
On a sunny afternoon the cool bus shelter waiting for the 33 back was welcome. I walked the Riverside as the Henley Women’s Regatta was finishing, which explained all the stripy blazers. Plenty of choice for dining, I chose Café Raj on the Reading Road. Later, I discovered Magoo’s on Hart Street, the only late bar in town used by bar staff elsewhere to gather after closing time.
Monday morning, after an excellent breakfast, I walked out to the Fairmile Vineyard a mile northwest of the town, to see where English sparkling wine was produced in the verdant uplands of Henley on Thames. I was received by the friendly couple who in 2013 planted the same three grape varieties which traditionally go into the world’s greatest fizz – Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. 12,000 vines were established across 3 hectares using GPS-guided machinery for accuracy and optimum spacing. After an interesting conversation on viticulture, I bought a bottle to secrete in my luggage. Bus 33 back into town.
I had lunch at the River and Rowing Museum (Art Fund free) which is a marvellous museum featuring an immersive Wind in the Willows exhibition, and sections on the town, the River Thames and its management, and Olympic and other rowing all over the world. This innovative museum allows entry in the last hour for half price. Then down to the river for a lovely hour’s Hobbs cruise along the Thames both ways, with plenty of rowing action to watch on the Berkshire side before sadly collecting my bag from The Relais and off towards the station.
