Harewood House, one of the greatest stately homes in the region, is located between Leeds and Harrogate and is best reached from the northeast via York and the local service via Knaresborough into Harrogate. The bus station in Harrogate is adjacent to the railway station, and the regular luxurious bus service 36 goes to the gates of the property every 15 minutes, and half-hourly on Sunday.
Whilst the £2 single is available now until October, it gets better: buy a PlusBus ticket to Harrogate and it covers Harewood in both directions for the same £2. Yet more amazing, as part of a promotion to encourage people to come by bus, there’s a full 50% off the admission price for people who come by bus, train, or walk or cycle (not recommended from the northeast).
The main house is set back from the road and it’s a 20-minute walk across rolling parkland, as improved by Lancelot “Capability” Brown. A useful alternative is available by phoning up for one of the electric buggies to come and collect you at the entrance. It’s free, and all you have to do is ring a mobile number given on an A-board near the entrance to save you from walking the entire distance. The entrance kiosk will give you a useful map to find your way around the estate, and you can visit attractions in any order you choose, bearing in mind that the last admission to the house (both “upstairs” and “downstairs” is 1515, whereas other places stay open to 1730, and the site closes at 1800. Harewood is open every day until Christmas.
The self-guided tour of the House is all on the ground floor, with staff in many of the rooms to answer your questions. No expense was spared in building the House and there are palatial bedrooms, grand libraries and receiving rooms all built to impress the visitors of the time, and today. There’s an interesting temporary exhibit about celebrated portrait painter Joshua Reynolds and his work. The family lives on the first floor which is inaccessible. Then you go down to see the kitchens, sculleries, servants’ rooms and storage areas.
Dark secrets have been revealed in recent years about how the building of this fine house was financed. The Lascelles family, who acquired the Estate in 1738 were up to the neck in the abominable slave trade and had slave plantations in the West Indies. To be fair to the Trust that administers the Estate, they do explain the nature of the trade and a couple of queries I had made to their archivist were answered fully in a few days.
The House was designed by Robert Adam and John Carr and completed in 1771.
Elsewhere on the estate, the Walled Garden can be reached via a footpath around the lake or by using a chain ferry across the lake. The extensive estate includes the exterior set for Emmerdale, the TV soap. The original Castle dates from 1366, and All Saints Church is worth a visit.
It’s a full day out but, of course, if you want to break your journey in either direction at Harrogate or York, you are free to do so. The Harewood Arms near the Estate entrance is worth a visit if you just miss a 36 to Harrogate. Time for a quick drink and there will be another one soon.
